T  S 


UC-NRLF 


EXCHANGE 


GIFT 
SEP    7    ' 


College  Bulletins 

Issued  Quarterly 
Vol.  14.  No.  2    8-I-I4-IO.COO 


J 


Utah  Agricultural  College 

SCHOOL  OF  HOME  ECONOMICS 


Pure  Textiles  and  Clothing 
A  Preliminary  Study  of  Wool,  Silk  and  Linen  Fabrics 

on  the 

Utah  Markets 

by  the 

U.  A.  C.  Home  Economies'  Faculty 

Under  the  Direction  of 
C.  W.  PORTER 


Entered  as  second  class  matter,  July  8,  1901,  at  P.  O.  at  Logan,  Utah, 
underact  of  July  16,  1894 


PRESS  OF 

THE  F.  \V.  GARDINER  CO. 
SALT   LAKE 


Uf 


President  John  A.  \Yidtsoe, 

Logan,  Utah. 

Sir: — I   have  the   honor  to   submit   herewith   an   article   on 
textiles   which   includes   a   report   of   the   composition   of   ma 
fabrics  that  are  on  sale  in  this   State.     Most  of  the  analytical 
work  was  done  by  Miss  Blanche  Cooper,  Mrs.  Rhoda  B.  Cook, 
Miss  Coral  Kerr,  and  Miss  Alice  Dunford. 

I    recommend    its   publication    as   a   contribution   from    the 
Home  Economics  faculty. 

C.  W.  PORTER,  Director. 


Utah  Agricultural  College 


FACULTY  OF  THE  SCHOOL  OF  HOME  ECONOMICS. 
J.  A.  WIDTSOE,  A.  M.,  Ph.  D.,  LL.  D.,  President  of  the  College 

C.  W.  PORTER,  A.  M Director 

BLANCHE  COOPER,  B.  S, 

Professor  of  Home  Construction  and  Sanitation 

RHODA  BOWEN  COOK,  B.  S Assistant  Professor  of  Domestic  Art 

GERTRUDE    McCHEYNE,    B.    S 

Leader   cf  Women's   Home  Economic   Associations 

ELEANORE  WILKiRGQN,  B.  S.  

....Leader  of  -Girls'  High  School  Club  Work 

4GNES  SAUNDERS,  A,  B.,  M.  Pd : 

•'•'«•  •  •  '.    *  ••AssiJrtarft-'P.ofessor  cf  Food  and  Dietetics 

CORAL  KERR,  B.  S.  Instructor  in  Domestic  Art 

ELLEN  AGREN,  B.  S..  Instructor  in  Foods  and  Dietetics 

CLAIR  PARRISH,  B.  S.  .Home  Demonstrator 


PURE  TEXTILES  AND  CLOTHING 


The  three  chief  necessities  of  life  are  food,  clothing,  and 
jelter.  Other  factors  contribute  to  the  happiness  of  man,  but 
his  comfort  is  dependent  very  largely  upon  his  ability  to  secure 
proper  nourishment,  good  clothes,  and  a  comfortable  home. 

Modern  industrial  development  has  rendered  necessary  a 
division  of  labor  that  makes  it  impossible  for  each  family  to 
produce  its  own  food  or  manufacture  its  own  clothing.  We  are 
therefore  dependent  upon  others  for  these  things. 

This  dependent  position  has  placed  us  more  or  less  at  the 
mercy  of  the  manufacturer,  who  in  turn  has  been  forced  by 
popular  demands  for  cheaper  goods  to  incorporate  in  his  prod- 
ucts adulterants  and  raw  material  of  inferior  quality.  Several 
years  ago  the  fact  was  revealed  to  the  people,  chiefly  through 
the  labors  of  Harvey  W.  Wiley,  that  foods  were  being  adulter- 
ated. Goods  of  inferior  quality  were  canned  in  unsanitary  fac- 
tories and  the  decay  of  the  unsavory  preparation  prevented  only 
by  the  addition  of  poisonous  preservatives.  Peas  were  made 
to  present  a  fresh  green  color  by  the  addition  of  blue  vitriol,  a 
poisonous  salt.  Olive  oil,  so  labeled,  proved  to  be  cottonseed 
oil  or  peanut  oil.  Meats  that  otherwise  would  decay  appeared 
fresh  indefinitely  under  the  germicidal  influence  of  sodium 
benzoate.  In  a  thousand  ways  unscrupulous  manufacturers  ex- 
ploited an  innocent  public.  But  these  conditions  are  changed. 
When  the  people  were  made  aware  of  these  dangerous  and 
fraudulent  practices  they  were  not  slow  to  enact  laws  to  over- 
come the  evil.  In  consequence,  we  have  the  pure  food  and  drug 
laws  that  make  necessary  the  accurate  labeling  of  all  preparations 
sold  for  food  or  medicine.  We  may  still  buy  oleomargarine,  or 
we  may  buy  butter  if  we  prefer  it.  But  we  are  no  longer  in  any 
great  danger  of  getting  a  package  of  oleomargarine  labeled 
butter  when  the  latter  is  ordered  from  the  grocer.  We  may  still 
buy  peas  made  green  with  copper  sulphate,  but  the  fact  that 
a  poison  has  been  used  to  produce  the  effect  must  be  on  the 
label  on  the  can,  or  the  factory  is  liable  to  prosecution  for  a 
criminal  act.  In  other  words,  the  food  and  drug  act  has  placed 
upon  the  manufacturer  the  responsibility  of  truthfully  advertis- 
ing his  goods. 


-   : 
4  UtAH  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE 

\Yith  textiles,  misre'pr'es^rita'tibn  is  still  the  rule.  Public 
sentiment  has  not  yet  been  stirred  to  the  point  of  legislating 
for  honest  clothing.  Merchants  buy  goods  for  all  wool  and  sell 
them  for  all  wool  when  as  a  matter  of  fact  they  may  contain 
only  enough  wool  to  respond  to  the  tests  generally  applied  by 
the  purchaser.  So  perfect  are  the  imitations  of  silk,  wool,  and 
linen  that  the  uninitiated  cannot  hope  to  discover  the  fraud. 
Cotton  can  be  so  treated  in  the  process  of  manufacture  that  it 
resembles  wool  in  texture  and  by  the  use  of  a  little  wool  in  the 
weave  it  responds  perfectly  to  the  burning  test  for  wool.  Cotton 
can  be  made  to  resemble  linen  so  closely  that  only  by  chemical 
and  microscopical  methods  can  the  two  be  distinguished. 

HOW  TEXTILES  ARE  ADULTERATED 

Cotton  may  be  treated  with  nitric  acid :  then  dis- 
Artificial  solved  in  alcohol  and  ether,  forced  through  capillary 
Silk  tubes,  hardened  in  water,  and  the  result  is  a  fibre 

in  which  the  physical  characteristics  of  the  cotton 
have  disappeared  and  the  properties  of  silk  so  closely  imitated 
that  only  by  chemical  means  can  the  difference  be  detected. 
This  artificial  silk  lacks  the  wearing  qualities  of  true  silk  and 
can  be  made  cheaper;  but  it  sells  for  pure  silk  with  no  reduc- 
tion in  price. 

->.  Various   means  of  adulterating  pure   silk   are   also 

-_  employed.    Ordinary  silk  as  reeled  from  the  cocoons 

.     _.  consists  of  from  20  to  35%  sericin  or  silk  gum.    Be- 

fore the  fibre  is  woven,  this  gum.  or  the  most  of  it, 
must  be  removed.  Usually  the  raw  silk  is  sent  to  a  house  that 
makes  a  business  of  "boiling  off"  and  dyeing  silk.  It  has  become 
the  practice  of  these  houses,  after  boiling  off  the  gum,  to  load 
the  fibre  with  mineral  matter  until  it  w.eighs  as  much  or  more 
than  the  original  silk,  including  the  gum.  A  certain  amount  of 
weighting  is  allowable;  indeed,  ^ome  mineral  sail  is  often  neces- 
sary to  impart  a  particular  shade  in  dyeing  or  to  guarantee  fast- 
ness in  the  color.  P.ut  the  only  purpose  of  excessive  weighting 
is  to  give  the  customer  the  impression  that  she  is  buying1  a  good 
heavy  Lrradc  of  silk  when  in  reality  the  fabric  is  a  thin  flimsy 
piece  of  silk  cloth  holding  from  one  to  three  times  its  own 
weight  of  such  substances  as  tin  phosphate  or  compounds  of 
iron,  aluminum,  silica,  or  even  sugar  and  starch. 


PURE  TEXTILES  AND  CLOTHING  5 

Samples  of  silk  have  been  investigated  in  this  laboratory 
that  contained  so  little  silk  and  so  much  mineral  matter  that  it 
was  found  impossible  to  set  fire  to  the  cloth.  And  after  such 
samples  have  been  subjected  to  the  intense  heat  of  the  electric 
oven,  the  mineral  residue  maintained  in  the  original  form  and 
size  closely  resembled  a  piece  of  fine  wire  gauze.  Silk  is  soft 
and  pliable;  but  when  loaded  with  inorganic  salts  it  cracks  or 
splits  easily  and  all  who  have  had  to  deal  with  silks  have  had 
experience  with  just  such  fabrics. 

Wool  is  commonly  mixed  with  cotton.    Very  often 
Cotton  the  mixture  is  made  by  spinning  together  a  cotton 

in  Wool  and  a  wool  fibre  so  that  the  cloth  woven  from  such 
yarn  will  contain  wool  in  every  thread.  The  burn- 
ing test  ordinarily  employed  would  be  useless  in  such  cases,  for 
every  thread  in  both  warp  and  weft  would  contain  enough  wool 
to  give  the  characteristic  odor. 

In  other  instances  cotton  yarn  is  used  for  the  warp  and  wool 
is  employed  as  filling.  Such' weaves  are  usually  sold  as  mixed 
goods  and  not  as  pure  wool. 

Like  silk,  the  wool  fibre  is  capable  of  absorbing  and 
Mineral  ,       .     n      ,    .  ,.        .  •*•*'• 

mechanically  holding  large  quantities  of  inorganic 

salts  and  these  salts  give  weight  and  firmness  to  the 
in  Wool  ,_, 

fabric.     They  are,  however,  of  no  permanent  value, 

for  they  add  nothing  to  the  wearing  quality  of  the  cloth  and  often 

wash  out  the  first  time  the  piece  is  placed  in  water. 

c  Cotton  is  the  only  fibre  commonly  employed  in  the 

adulteration  of  linen  fabrics  and  starch  is  the  weisrht- 
in  L,men          .  .  .  .. 

ing  material  most  frequently  employed. 

Linen  is  the  finest,  strongest,  and  best  of  the  vegetable  tex- 
tile fibres.  It  also  claims  the  distinction  of  being  one  of  the 
first  fibres  to  be  spun  and  woven  into  cloth.  The  first  appearance 
of  linen,  cotton,  and  wool  in  woven  fabrics  dates  back  to  the 
remote  past.  But  ancient  writings  clearly  indicate  that  linen  was 
the  most  highly  prized  textile  of  antiquity. 

King  Lemuel  (Proverbs  31),  speaking  of  womar.'s  work, 
said  : 

"She  seeketh  wool  and  flax  and  worketh  willingly 

with    her   hands.        *       *       *     She   maketh    fine   linen 

and  selleth  it    and    delivereth    fine    girdles    unto    the 

merchant." 

The  remarkable  strength  and  endurance  of  linen  and  its 
ability  to  resist  destructive  agencies  is  shown  in  the  fact  that 


6  UTAH  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE 

•>tian  mummy-cloths  more  than  4000  years  old  have  been 
found  in  a  fairly  good  state  of  preservation. 

It  should  be  kept  in  mind  also  that  a  cotton  linen  mixture 
is  worth  very  little  more  than  an  all  cotton  cloth.  For  the  chief 
advantage  of  linen  is  its  endurance  or  wearing  qualities.  A 
cloth  made  of  cotton  and  linen  mixed  is  gone  as  soon  as  the 
cotton  threads  wear  out. 

METHODS  OF  ANALYSIS 

Chemical  as  well  as  mechanical  and  microscopical  methods 
are  employed  in  detecting  adulterants  in  textiles  and  a  brief 
description  of  a  few  processes  will  be  given. 

UNDER  THE  MICROSCOPE 

In  the  first  place  it  must  be  understood  that  the  various 
textile  fibres  present  characteristic  appearances  when  examined 
under  the  microscope. 


II 


IV 


PURE  TEXTILES  AND  CLOTHING 

FIGURE  I*  represents  wool  fibres.  They  look  like  small 
tubes  covered  with  scales.  In  some  of  the  finer  varieties  of 
Merino  wool  each  scale  extends  entirely  around  the  fibre  while 
in  coarser  types  two,  three,  or  more  make  up  the  circumference. 
The  scales  overlap  each  other  much  like  the  imbricated  struc- 
ture of  a  pine  cone. 

FIGURE  Hf  *s  a  micrograph  of  cotton  fibres.  They  appear 
like  ribbons.  They  closely  resemble  thin  rubber  tubes  that 
have  flattened  out  and  become  twisted  as  a  result  of  drawing 
out  the  air  from  the  tubes. 

FIGURE  HI*  shows  the  appearance  of  flax  under  the  micro- 
scope. It  consists  of  thin,  jointed,  semi-transparent  rods. 

Silk,  jute,  and  other  textile  fibres  also  present  characteristic 
forms  under  the  microscope,  so  that  a  mechanical  separation  and 
estimation  of  the  various  fibres  in  mixed  goods  is  possible. 

FIGURE  IVf  shows  the  appearance  of  shoddy  under  the 
microscope.  In  it  can  be  detected  both  cotton  and  wool  and 
some  of  the  wool  fibres  appear  split  and  broken,  indicating  that 
it  is  wool  obtained  from  old  clothing.  Worn  out  woolen  clothing 
furnishes  thousands  of  pounds  of  "regenerated"  wool  fibre  an- 
nually for  the  manufacture  of  shoddy. 


CHEMICAL  TESTS 

Wool  dissolves  completely  within  fifteen  minutes 
Wool  and  in  a  hot  five  per  cent  solution  of  potassium  hydrox- 
Cotton  ide.  Cotton  fails  to  dissolve  in  this  reagent.  On 

the  other  hand  cotton  dissolves  in  a  strong  solution 
of  sulphuric  acid  and  wool  remains  unchanged.  These  chemical 
characteristics  afford  convenient  means  of  estimating  the  quantity 
of  wool  and  cotton  in  mixed  goods.  The  ordinary  test  made  by 
burning  the  cloth  and  observing  the  odor  is  of  little  value,  for 
yarn  containing  a  very  small  percentage  of  wool  gives  the  dis- 
tinct odor  of  burning  wool. 


*Bowman's  "Structure  of  the  Cotton  Fibre." 
fMatthew's  "Textile  Fibres." 


UTAH  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE 


I;K,t  KE  V  is  a  photograph  of  a  sample  of  cloth  sold  for  all 
wool.  The  piece  was  36  inches  wide,  weighed  1.5  ounces  a 
yard,  and  retailed  for  $1.50  a  yard.  The  upper  end  of  the 
sample  photographed  has  not  been  subjected  to  the  action  of 
any  chemical  reagent.  It  is  sample  No.  5,  reported  in  the  table 
on  page  1J.  The  lower  half  was  immersed  for  fifteen  minutes 
in  hot  potassium  hydroxide.  The  warp  in  this  sample  is  made 
up  entirely  of  cotton  and  remains  undissolved.  The  weft  is  wool 
and  in  the  portion  treated  the  wool  has  dissolved  out. 


PURE  TEXTILES  AND  CLOTHING 


VI 


FIGURE  VI  is  a  photograph  of  cloth  sold  as  all  wool  flannel. 
Analysis  proved  it  to  be  41.05  per  cent  wool  aixl  49.80  per  cent 
cotton.  In  this  case  the  warp  and  weft  were  alike.  The  yarn 
used  in  weaving  the  piece  had  been  made  by  spinning  cotton 
and  woolen,  threads  together.  In  the  lower  half  of  the  sample 
shown,  the  wool  has  been  removed  and  a  gauze-like  structure 
of  cotton  remains.  This  piece  is  sample  No.  38.  Width  53 
inches,  weight  2.12  ounces  a  yard,  price  $1.50  a  yard.* 

The  wearing  quality  of  the  dress  goods  is  not  a  question 
tinder  consideration  at  the  present  time.  Sample  No.  5  shown 
in  Figure  5  gave  entire  satisfaction  to  the  purchaser  and  it  very 
often  happens  that  a  wool-cotton  mixture  will  give  better  service 
than  a  pure  wool  or  a  pure  cotton  fabric.  But  we  should  be  able 


*It  is  thought  best  to  suppress  the  names  of  the  dealers  who  furnished 
the  samples  and  also  the  names  of  the  mills  where  they  were  woven,  un- 
til a  more  complete  report  can  be  issued.  It  may  be  purely  accidental 
that  the  samples  analyzed  from  one  factory  have  been  uniformly  good 
and  from  another  very  poor.  Until  more  samples  from  each  mill  have 
been  analyzed  recommendation  of  one  and  condemnation  of  the  other 
would  be  premature. 


10  UTAH  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE 

to  buy  pure  wool  or  half  wool  as  we  choose  and  not  be  given 
a  clever  imitation  with  a  false  claim  as  to  its  real  nature. 

Many  tests  are  known  for  the  detection  in  silk  of 
artificial    fibres,   cotton    and    wool.      Unfortunately 
Silk  these  tests  cannot  be  applied  by  the  layman.     It 

requires  the  skill  of  the  chemist  to  determine  with 
certainty  the'  composition  of  silk  fabrics. 

Silk  dissolves  completely  in  cold  concentrated  hydrochloric 
acid,  whereas  wool  is  not  affected  by  this  treatment.  It  dissolves 
in  basic  zinc  chloride  in  which  cotton  remains  unchanged.  Silk 
also  dissolves  readily  in  an  ammoniacal  solution  of  nickel  oxide, 
a  reagent  which  fails  to  act  upon  either  cotton  or  wool.  And 
it  likewise  dissolves  in  an  alkaline  solution  of  copper  oxide  in 
glycerine.  There  are,  therefore,  many  methods  for  estimating 
silk,  but  as  none  of  these  are  practical  home  tests  the  methods 
of  procedure  will  not  be  described  here.  By  far  the  most  accurate 
and  satisfactory  way  of  estimating  the  quantity  of  pure  silk  in 
mixed  goods  is  known  as  the  Kjeldahl  method.  This  method 
consists  of  an  ultimate  analysis  of  the  sample  for  nitrogen  and 
calculation  of  the  quantity  of  silk  from  the  nitrogen  content  of 
the  cloth.  By  this  method  all  analyses  of  silk,  reported  in  this 
bulletin,  were  made. 

Sample  No.  46  was  sold  with  the  dealer's  spoken  guarantee 
that  it  was  pure  silk  free  from  all  substitutes  and  artificial  fibre. 
An  exact  analysis  revealed  the  fact  that  the  sample  was  80.5 
per  cent  cotton,  4.10  per  cent  mineral  weighting  and  only  15.40 
per  cent  silk. 

Bleached  linen,  like  cotton,  is  composed  almost  en- 
tirely of  cellulose,  so  that  chemical  reagents  react 
Linen  upon  both  in  about  the  same  way.     It  is  therefore 

difficult  to  make  a  quantitative  analysis  of  mixtures 
of  linen  and  cotton.  The  microscope  affords  the  most  reliable 
means.  A  few  chemicals,  however,  give  characteristic  reactions 
that  help  in  differentiating  cotton  and  linen.  One  of  the  best 
of  these  is  rosolic  acid.  When  immersed  in  an  alcoholic  solution 
of  rosolic  acid  and  then  in  a  <odium  hydroxide  solution  and  sub- 
sequently washed  in  water,  linen  acquire^  a  rose  color  and  cotton 
remains  white. 

The  ordinary  test  applied  to  linen,  that  of  wetting  the  finger 
and  touching  the  cloth  to  see  if  the  moisture  strikes  through  is 
not  reliable.  A  fifty  per  rent  linen  will  respond  to  the  test 


PURE  TEXTILES  AND  CLOTHING  11 

almost  as  readily  as  will  pure  linen.  A  better  test  is  to  fringe 
out  the  sample  and  burn  the  separate  fibres.  The  burned  ends 
of  cotton  appear  tufted  or  frayed ;  the  linen  fibres  appear  rounded. 
Or  the  sample  may  be  immersed  in  concentrated  sulphuric  acid, 
then  washed  in  water  and  finally  in  dilute  ammonia.  Cotton 
dissolves  and  linen  remains.  This  method  cannot  be  used  for 
a  quantitative  separation,  for  if  the  treatment  with  the  acid  is 
continued  long  enough  to  dissolve  all  the  cotton  a  large  per- 
centage of  the  linen  is  also  destroyed. 

NOT  ALL  BAD 

From  the  foregoing  discussion  it  must  not  be  assumed  that 
all  textiles  are  unreliable.  Many  of  the  samples  sold  for  all 
wool  were  actually  all  wool,  though  in  some  samples  the  fibres 
were  short  and  coarse  and  the  weave  so  loose  that  the  material 
would  constitute  a  poor  bargain  at  any  price.  Most  of  the 
samples  of  silk  analyzed  contained  no  other  textile  fibre  than 
silk,  but  nearly  all  were  heavily  weighted  with  mineral  salts 
and  a  few  of  them  contained  cotton  in  some  form.  Six  pieces 
of  linen  were  examined  and  five  of  them  were  partly  cotton. 
Xo  adulteration  was  found  in  goods  sold  as  "all  cotton." 

Samples  of  men's  clothing  secured  from  sample  books  in 
clothing  stores  revealed  the  fact  that  goods  marked  all  wool 
and  selling  for  as  much  as  $5.00  a  yard  were  made  of  regener- 
ated fibre,  that  is,  fibres  that  had  been  secured  from  clothing 
previously  worn  out  and  in  many  cases  contained  besides  wool 
a  considerable  quantity  of  cotton,  hemp,  and  jute. 

The  so-called  Merino  underwear  contains  not  a  single  thread 
of  wool,  it  is  mercerized  cotton  only. 

A  word  of  warning  should  be  given  here  against  the  purchase 
of  very  cheap  all  wool  garments.  Cloth  containing  wool  only 
.can  be  bought  for  35  cents  a  yard,  but  an  all  wool  fabric  at 
that  price  will  never  give  the  same  service  that  a  cotton-wool 
mixture  of  the  same  weight  and  price  would  give.  Short,  coarse, 
wool  fibres,  regenerated  wool,  and  shoddy  are  made  up  to  meet 
the  popular  demand  for  an  all  wool  cloth  at  a  low  price.  A 
good  substantial  piece  of  cloth  made  of  fine  long  fibres,  closely 
woven  and  unadulterated  cannot  be  retailed  for  thirty-five  cents 
a  yard.  If  all  wool  is  wanted  it  is  often  a  matter  of  good 
economy  to  pay  $1.50  or  more  a  yard  for  a  serviceable  dress. 


12 


UTAH  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE 


The  same  is  true  of  silk.  A  good  quality  of  pure  silk  cloth 
cannot  be  retailed  at  a  very  low  price,  and  the  purchaser  should 
remember  that  the  twenty-five  cent  silks  are  not  more  than 
twenty-five  per  cent  silk. 

Often,  when  purchasing  materials,  width  is  not  taken  into 
consideration  by  the  purchaser.  The  buyer  will  pay  $1.25  a 
yard  for  serge  forty-two  inches  wide  when  she  will  not  consider 
paying  $2.25  for  a  better  piece  of  material  fifty-six  inches  wide. 
The  advantages  of  the  cutting  of  a  garment  in  wide  material 
over  that  of  narrow  will  often  make  it  much  cheaper  to  invest 
in  the  wider  and  higher  priced  piece. 

In  the  following  table,  mineral  matter,  starch  and  other 
weighting  materials  have  been  listed  with  the  moisture  con- 
tained in  the  air-dried  sample.  Unless  the  value  reported  in  this 
column  exceeds  ten  per  cent  the  fabric  may  be  regarded  as 
unadulterated  if  the  analysis,  as  shown  in  the  other  columns, 
shows  no  other  textile  fibre  present  than  one  for  which  the 
fabric  was  sold.  Wool,  silk,  and  cotton  will  absorb  from  the 
atmosphere  from  three  to  ten  per  cent  of  their  own  weight 
of  water. 


COMPOSITION 


Sample  No. 

1 
I 

* 

8 

£ 

^, 

•UJ 

— 

£ 

•d 

>» 

CC 
4J 

| 

'v 

^ 
s 

!     *. 

I  i 

*           * 

tj 

K-g 

ISs 

ll»j, 

j        ^  ~  •-.  .= 

*      *|£| 

1 

Silk  . 

...$2.50 

In. 

30 

Oz. 

1.70 

87.55 

1245 

2 

Silk  . 

...     .75 

26 

1.25 

65.41 

.  .      34  59 

3 

Silk  . 

...    1.75 

30 

1.25 

70.00 

3000 

4 

Silk  . 

...   1.75 

30 

2.10 

55.50 

4450 

5 
6 
7 

Wool 
Wool 
Wool 

...   1.50 
...   1.50 
...  1.25 

36 
36 

52 

1.50 

.75 
2.75 

49.60    45.03 
88.00 
9000 

5.37 
12.00 
1000 

8 

Silk. 

...     .18 

4 

.78 

80.80 

1920 

9 

Silk. 

.  .  .     .50 

27 

.50 

93.34 

666 

10 
11 

Wool 
Wool 

...     .35 
...     .35 

24 
24 

2.60 
1.50 

88.25 
8970 

11.75 
1030 

12 

Wool 

...     .35 

24 

2.50 

.  .      84  80 

1520 

13 

Wool 

...     .35 

24 

2.20 

8343 

1657 

14 
15 

Wool 
Wool 

...     .60 
...  1.75 

36 
52 

2.80 
6.10 

20.00    74.28 
92.70 

5.72 
7.30 

PURE  TEXTILES  AND  CLOTHING 


13 


COMPOSITION 

6 

5 

bj 

£r 

~ 

a 

••~  2: 

£ 

a 

1 

- 

— 

Tt 

^ 

| 

a 

1      j'jL 

E 

— 

~ 

-z 

a 

l?i 

Q 

> 

A 

X 

& 

^ 

* 

* 

* 

*•           t-  ~  i£  ''7. 

In. 

Oz. 

16 

Wool. 

.  $1.75 

48 

6.10 

92.70 

.      7.30 

17 

Wool 

..  1.75 

48 

6.00 

..... 

88.27 

11.73 

18 

Wool 

..  1.75 

51 

7.20 



92.15 

7.85 

19 

Silk  .  . 

..     .60 

18 

1.20 

61.30 

.     39.70 

20 

Silk  .  . 

..     .75 

18 

1.80 

60.00 

40.00 

21 

Woo! 

..  2.50 

56 

10.30 

93.00 

7.00 

22 

Wool 

..  2.50 

56 

8.90 





94.00 

6.00 

23 

Silk  .  . 

..     .40 

6 

1.30 

i7.50 

82.50 

24 

Silk  .  . 

..     .25 

6 

1.40 

11.00 

89.00 

25 

Silk  .  . 

..     .25 

6 

.50 

63.15 

26.85 

26 

Silk  .  . 

..   1.50 

21 

67.94 



32.06 

27 

Silk  .  . 

..   1.50 

36 

2.18 

65.00 



35.00 

28 

Silk  .  . 

..   1.50 

24 

2.70 

18.80 

75.20 

6.00 

29 

Linen 

..   1.00 

69 

9.27 

51.10 

40.00      8.90 

30 

Cotton 

..     .50 

58 

5.85 

96.00 

4.00 

31 

Linen 

..  2.50 

72 

12.28 

18.80 

77.00      4.20 

32 

Wool 

..  2.50 

58 

11.45 

93.90 

6.10 

33 

Wool 

..  2.50 

54 

9.93 





89.60 

11.40 

34 

Linen 

..     .50 

36 

7.65 

30.00 



65.00      5.00 

35 

Linen 

..     .50 

35 

7.10 



20.00 



74.90      5.10 

36 

Linen 

..     .90 

22 

6.20 



20.00 



73.90      6.10 

37 

Wool 

..  1.25 

52 

2.50 



55.00 

40.00 

5.00 

38 

Wool 

..  1.50 

53 

2.12 



49.80 

41.05 

9.15 

39 

Wool 

..  1.50 

48 

4.80 

8500 

1^00 

40 

Wool 

..  1.50 

52 

4.90 

84.30 

15.70 

41 

Wool 

...    65 

36 

5.25 

82.58 

.     17.42 

42 

Wool 

..  1.25 

40 

5.35 

92.10 

7.90 

43 

Silk  .  . 

..   1.00 

27 

1.26 

76.43 

23.57 

44 

Silk  .  . 

..   1.25 

26 

1.68 

77.17 

22.83 

45 

Silk  .  . 

..   1.25 

30 

.70 

89.00 

11.00 

46 

Silk  .  . 

..   1.75 

26 

4.28 

15.40 

80.50 

4.10 

47 

Silk  .  . 

..  2.00 

36 

4.56 

20.70 

74.00 

5.30 

48 

Silk  .  . 

..  2.25 

36 

3.90 

64.40 

20.60 

15.00 

49 

Silk  .  . 

..     .85 

18 

.62 

74.00 

.    26.00 

50 

Linen 

..    1.25 

51 

8.90 

90.00     10.00 

51 

Wool  . 

.  .   1.65 

56 

12.10 

86.00 

14.00 

52 

Wool 

..  2.50 

56 

10.08 

90.70 

9.30 

53 

Wool 

..  1.60 

55 

7.84 

72.00 

21.50 

6.50 

54 

Wool  . 

.  .  2.00 

52 

8.10 

92.00 

8.00 

55 

Wool 

..  1.60 

50 

8.20 

87.00 

..     13.00 

56 

Wool 

..     .65 

36 

2.77 

86.10 

....     13.90 

14 


UTAH  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE 


COMPOSITION 


d 

o 

i, 

57 

58 
59 
60 
61 
62 
63 
64 
65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 
74 
75 
80 
si 

— 
i 

Silk  .  .  . 
Silk 

g 

*c 

S  .15 
IS 

i 

'5 

2 

X 

J 

I            J          J 

*.           *. 

r  ='--7. 

34.25 
42.83 
19.90 
10.00 

In. 

3 

56 
18 
41 
18 
18 
32 
24 
50 
50 
56 
30 
42 
36 
30 
a  sk 
a  sk 

.51 

.39 
.32 
7.84 

65.75 
57.17 
80.10 

Silk  15 
Wool  ...    1.50 
Velvet  ..  2.00 
Wool  ...  1.25 
Silk  ....    1.00 
Silk.  ...    1.00 
Cotton    .     .25 
Silk  ....    1.00 
Wool  ...  1.00 
Wool  ...     .80 
Wool  .  .  .  2.25 
\Yool  ...  1.00 
Silk  ....   1.50 
Silk  ....    1.75 
Silk.  ...   1.90 
Silk  Floss   i  5c 
Silk    Moss  (5c 

9000 

6.00 
1.22 
1.15 
6.60 
.92 
8.00 
6.10 
9.21 
4.85 
1.30 
1.86 
1.10 
dn  i 
ein) 

30.00    62.00     

8.00 
39.59 

54.75 

=100 

60.41 
45.25 

0500 

90.00 

10.00 
1500 

8500 

40  00    42  10 

7.90 
8.00 
7.50 
9.10 
37.80 
17.83 
4.00 
5.00 

9200 

9250 

30.90 
62.20 
82.17 

60.00     

96.00     
9500 

WHO  IS  RESPONSIBLE  FOR  FRAUD? 

The  retail  dealer  is  not  to  be  blamed  for  making  the  same 
claims  for  his  goods  as  were  made  to  him  by  the  manufacturer 
and,  therefore,  our  protest  is  not  directed  against  the  dealer.  The 
purpose  of  this  bulletin  is  to  place  before  the  people  the  facts 
with  reference  to  woven  goods  in  order  that  they  may  see  the 
necessity  of  requiring  the  manufacturer  to  place  a  reliable  label 
on  every  bolt  of  cloth  and  of  enacting  laws  making  misrepresenta- 
tion in  textiles  at  least  as  serious  an  offense  as  misrepresentation 
in  foods. 

The  consumer  is  not  able  to  protect  himself  by  testing  the 
fabrics  before  buying.  The  tests  can  be  made  successfully  only 
by  analytical  chemists.  But  with  a  law  compelling  accurate 
labeling  of  every  bolt  of  cloth  that  leaves  the  mill  and  a  few 
chemists  on  the  alert  to  detect  fraudulent  labeling,  the  people 
would  soon  have  reliable  clothing. 


PURE  TEXTILES  AND  CLTQ-TO^G; ;  .-.  15 

THE  LINDQUIST  BILL 

Congressman  Lindquist  has  introduced  a  bill  (H.  R.  10080) 
which  provides  that  it  shall  be  unlawful  to  misrepresent  in 
manufacturing,  selling,  or  trading  any  fabric  or  article  made  in 
whole  or  in  part  of  wool,  silk,  cotton,  linen,  or  leather.  The  bill 
provides  that  the  manufacturer  shall  properly  label  every  bolt 
of  cloth  that  leaves  his  mills ;  that  the  label  shall  give  the  per- 
centage of  each  kind  of  fibre  in  the  fabric.  Failure  to  do  this  or  any 
misrepresentation  on  the  label  is  made  a  criminal  act. 

The  people  should  demand  this  protection.  The  Lindquist 
Bill  should  become  a  law. 

GROWTH  OF  THE  TEXTILE  INDUSTRY 

In  Colonial  times  the  spinning  wheel  and  loom  could  be 
found  in  almost  every  household.  Wool  and  cotton  were  carded, 
spun  and  woven  into  cloth,  and  dyed  and  made  into  wearing 
apparel  in  almost  every  home.  Indeed,  it  is  within  the  memory 
of  many  living  today  when  Utah's  isolation  made  necessary  the 
same  thing,  and  men.  women,  and  children  were  dressed  in 
homespun  garments.  Every  operation  from  shearing  the  sheep 
to  finishing  the  suit  or  dress  was  performed  by  members  of  the 
family. 

The  textile  industry  in  America  has  been  rapidly  developing 
for  just  about  one  hundred  years.  A  century  ago  the  hand  loom 
was  almost  entirely  displaced  by  the  power  loom.  The  old 
spinning  wheel  relinquished  its  claim  to  a  place  of  honor  in 
favor  of  the  modern  "mule"  and  the  mill  with  its  complex 
machinery  and  specialized  labor  assumed  the  duty  of  providing 
cloth  for  all  purposes. 

Today  there  are  in  operation  in  the  United  States  34,000,000 
spindles,  most  of  them  employed  in  spinning  cotton.  4,000,000 
of  them  are  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  woolen  and  worsted 
goods  and  2,000,000  are  busy  with  silk.  With  reference  to  capital 
invested,  and  wages  paid,  the  textile  industry  holds  second  place 
when  compared  with  all  other  industries  in  America.  The  value 
of  the  textiles  manufactured  in  the  United  States,  $1,300,000,000, 
annually,  is  surpassed  only  by  the  value  of  the  total  food  prod- 
ucts of  the  country.  We  have  4000  mills  giving  employment 
to  800,000  wage  earners  who  receive  annually  $250,000,000.  And 
the  capacity  of  each  wage  earner  in  the  mills  of  today  is  equal 


16 


;  11T  .  rj^AL  COLLEGE 


to  the  work  of  an  entire  community  of  an  earlier  period.  Twenty- 
five  weavers  today  are  able  to  run  200  power  looms  and  turn 
out  as  much  cloth  in  a  given  time  as  could  have  been  made  by 
60,000  workmen  with  the  hand  looms  of  Colonial  times.  In 
a  single  city  (Lowell,  Mass.)  there  are  in  operation  today  nearly 
one  million  spindles  and  more  than  20,000  power  looms  with  a 
daily  output  that  with  hand  looms  and  the  old  spinning  wheels 
would  require  the  labor  of  15,000,000  craftsmen. 

We  are  justly  proud  of  this  remarkable  growth  and  nothing 
should  be  done  to  check  its  progress ;  but  for  the  protection  of 
90,000,000  consumers  we  believe  that  every  bolt  of  cloth  should 
be  labeled  with  a  true  statement  of  its  composition. 


SCHOOL  OF  HOME  ECONOMICS 

UTAH  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE 

LOGAN,  UTAH 

Offers  complete  courses  in  all  brunches  of  homemaking  and 
housekeeping. 

Short  practical  courses  in  domestic  science  and  art,  home 
sanitation  and  decoration,  and  other  related  subjects,  are  open 
to  all  women  irrespective  of  their  pr<  rhool  training. 

College  courses  leading  to  a  degree  may  be  taken  by  those 
.who  have  had  the  requisite  high  school  preparation. 

Correspondence  courses  are  offered  in  all  branches  of  home 
economics. 

The  College  can  not  supply  the  demand  for  teachers  of  do- 
mestic science  and  art. 

The  College  is  the ^ate.  State  institution  authorized  to  give 
work  in  home  economics  or  college,4g;^de. 

English,  art.  music  and  all  general  subjects  of  instruction 
may  be  taken  by  all  students  of  the  College. 

WOMEN  AS  WELL  AS  MEN  MUST  BE  TRAINED 
FOR  THEIR  LIFE  WORK.^ 

Write  for  further  information. 


301417 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 


